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by
Ruth Rogers Rose Gray Fodor's Travel Publications, Inc; ISBN: 0679450017 Hardcover 1st Ed. (June 1996)
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Experts Commentary
From Publisher's Weekly: This compendium of simple Italian food
from the owners of London's River Cafe is competent and attractive, but
it doesn't distinguish itself from the abundance of Italian cookbooks
already on the American market. It is widely understood that the key to
fine Italian food lies in top-notch ingredients simply prepared. Thus
the recipes for Raw Fennel Salad (fennel, vinegar and Parmesan) and the
many grilled or baked fish recipes (fish, salt, pepper and sometimes olive
oil) are familiar. The more inventive dishes suggest some unusual methods:
a Rotolo di Spinaci (large filled pasta) is poached before serving; eight
pounds of coarse salt is packed around a four-pound fish in Sea Bass Baked
in Salt. There are also recipes for organ meats (Kidneys with Artichoke
Hearts and Thyme) not often served on this side of the pond. The authors
lean toward an authoritative, sometimes rigid posture that may put off
American readers ("You must use salted anchovies from Greek, Spanish and
Italian grocers"). Prospective pasta makers are advised to use stone-ground
"00" flour from Piedmont, yet no next-best thing is suggested for those
without access to it. Overall, these uncomplicated recipes on uncluttered
pages have an eye appeal and a culinary reliability that are undercut
by the somewhat stiff delivery.
From The Reader's Catalog: Nineteen weeks on the Times (London) bestseller
list, this is "the culinary bible for a new generation of cooks." The
Independent credited it with "raising Italian home cooking to an art form,"
while The Guardian described it as "a forerunner in introducing the most
authentic and best Italian food in London." Delightful and simple recipes
using only a few straightforward ingredients and resulting in original
and authentic dishes.
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